But I sure wasn't. I can now call myself a true Southern Californian!! I have been surfing and I enjoyed it. 50 degree water, diluted raw sewage, oh this is the life... But in all honesty it was far more fun than I ever expected.
Here's a few crap-tastic photos from the morning, I HATE it when I forget to reset the apperture and ISO and end up over-exposing my pics. Oh well, thank goodness for photoshop...
Scott Sanford surfing mini waves, perfect for my first lesson.
A few days ago I was feeling adventurous so I called up my neighbor, Scott, a surfer and a lifegaurd and asked him if he would take me out for a impromptu surf lesson. I can't very well show up in Australia being the Southern California chick that I am and admit to never surfing... I have been long overdue for it anyhow. I didn't manage to get on my feet the entire 45 minutes we were in the water but I did start to get the feel for paddling around and caught a few waves that I rode in on my stomach for. I also got thrashed a few times finding myself head over heels tumbling in the waves but hey, I figure that's half the fun. The water was around a chilly 50 degrees, normally 70 in the summer but today the winds had changed bringing cold water up from a deep trough off to our left. And me without a wetsuit... oh well. At least I looked pretty tough next to all those men in full suits, that or pretty stupid. ;)
coming in for the day.
From the conservation end of things, surfers do their part for sure. The Surfrider Foundation plays a huge role in conservation and clean up when it comes to our beaches. They monitor water quality, and fight to clean up and save the environment they use for their recreation. To learn more visit their website above.
So will I continue to surf? You bet! Am I going to buy a wetsuit if the water temp. stays that cold? You bet! Shivering uncontrollably and losing feeling below my thighs is a bad thing right? At least I can start a 'from the surfboard' lifelist =)
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